10-20 Corfu, Greece

Corfu island is the most northerly of the Ionian Islands in the Ionian Sea with an area of 257 square miles.  It is separated from the Greek and Albanian mainlands by a narrow channel.  Almost all the commerce of the island passes through the town of Corfu, which is the center of tourism. 

The northern part of the island is mountainous with Mount Pandokrator reaching 2,972 feet.  The central part is hilly, and the southern part low and fairly level. 

The island is steeped in history and it is connected to the history of Greece starting from Greek mythology.  It is the legendary “island of the Phaeacians” in Homer’s The Odyssey.  Its history is full of battles and conquests.  Corfu placed itself under the protection of Venice in 1386 and remained that way until 1797.  In 1864 it unified with Greece.

Corfu Town is the island capital and is between two castles/fortresses which protected the town.  The Byzantine-built Old Fortress was the original settlement.  Expanded under Venetian rule, the walled citadel was accessible across Contafossa moat via a moveable wood bridge.  We did not have time to explore either of these two fortresses, but would if we were to return.

Our tour today took us out of Corfu Town for the first part and up to the small town of Gastouri where we visited the Achillon – the mansion built by the Empress Elisabeth of Austria and later owned by Kaiser Wilhelm II.  It was one of the most beautiful palaces we’ve seen with 48 rooms.  This picture shows the staircase as you enter the palace. It was named after Elisabeth’s favorite Greek hero, Achilles.

Elisabeth was a fascinating woman.  She was well-educated, liberal for her times, had a great interest in ancient Greece, and loved to travel.  She also loved nature and horseback riding.  When she was only 16, she was married to her cousin, Franz Joseph I, and became the Empress of Austria.  She had two children, a daughter, Sophia, who died at the age of two.  She also had a son who was her most favorite – who committed suicide with his 17 year old mistress. 

After this, Elisabeth had  her palace made in Corfu.  Between 1891 and 1898, she came to this palace every year where she enjoyed riding and nature walks.  She studied modern Greek so she could talk with the locals. 

She was a vain woman, however, and was proud of two of her best traits.  She had a narrow waist and long hair past her waist.  It took two hours daily for her maids to fix her hair.  Once a month, she spent a whole day on her hair.  During that time, she studied languages.  In all her pictures, you can see her beautiful hair and small waist.  However, she never smiled because of her black teeth – partly the result of smoking.

Not only was the palace itself beautiful, the gardens were just as exquisite with breathtaking views of the sea.  She had a statue made of Achilles with him trying to remove the arrow that was shot into his heel.

She was assassinated in 1898 by an Italian.  The palace was later bought by Wilhelm II and in the 1960s became the museum it is today.

After leaving the palace, we made a photo stop at Kanoni (which means “peak”) for a view of the convent Vlacherna (no longer open) and Mouse Island (only open one time a year for the “Almighty” celebration.  According to mythology, this island is Odysseus’ petrified ship, turned to stone by angry Poseidon. It was a pretty view from here – except for the runway for the one airport!  There was a little Greek cafe, next to a Starbucks! 

We returned to town by a different route – both ways were very scenic overlooking the sea.  Back in the town of Corfu (same name as island), we walked to the old district.  We passed by the Georgian-style Palace of St Michael & St. George, built during the British rule to be the Governor’s official residence, before walking to the pedestrian Spianada Square which is the town center with it narrow streets coming off of it.  We went inside the most beautiful church on this island, St. Spiridon.  We were not allowed to take pictures.  St. Spiridon was a special saint for this city, and his body is in an ornate silver casket in a special room near the alter.  Five times a year, they have a procession and take his body around the city.

Doug and I had a Greek lunch at a wonderful restaurant (the Aegli) with outside seating right on the Liston –  a street which used to be only for the nobles.  In front of it was cricket field. 

Afterwards, we walked around the Spianada and happened to walk in one little shop to buy some of the honey almonds we had heard so much about.  We also bought some olive oil.  As we chatted with the owner, and told him we were from Florida, he told us his cousin had a restaurant in Venice (FL).  It is Mama Leona’s!  It was five minutes from our house in Willowbend – and we had dined there several times.  So, after pictures of him and his shop, we told him we’d go see his cousin when we returned home.  Talk about a small world!!!

We really enjoyed this port – and I especially enjoyed the morning tour of the Achillon.