11-01 Lisbon, Portugal

This is my first time to visit Portugal – Doug has been to Lisbon twice, but more than 30 years ago.  Since I loved Spain so much, I was excited to see what Portugal was like. 

Lisbon is the capital of Portugal, but is a small capital with only about 1 million people.   It is Europe’s westernmost capital and grew along the northern bank of the Tagus River.  The city is on a hillside for the most part and is often compared to San Francisco – especially with a similar looking bridge that was built by the same architect. 

The city is divided into different and distinct sections.  Much of the city was destroyed by an earthquake and tidal wave in 1755.  The only part that was not damaged was the old Moorish quarter of town known as the Alfama.  

Legend claims that Ulysses established Lisbon, but scholars argue it was probably Phoenicians sailors instead.  Explorers such as Vasco da Gama departed from Lisbon in search of a route to India, and instead discovered new lands.

Since we didn’t get into Lisbon until mid-morning, we were able to watch the sail in.  It is a wonderful city for that – with the suspension bridge built in 1966 and other monuments that could be seen from the water.  Overlooking all of it is the 752 foot figure representing Christ the King towering on a hilltop along the southern bank of the Tagus.  It is similar to the one in Rio de Janeiro.  The other impressive monument was the one to the Discoveries.  It honors the explorers who brought Portugal great power and riches centuries ago.  The third is the Belem Tower which looks like it is part of a small castle.

We did a private tour with Peggy and Linda’s friends again.  Unfortunately, the tour guide was brand new and didn’t have a microphone in her 9 passenger van, so we couldn’t hear much of what she was describing.  And unfortunately, it was All Saints Day, so all the museums, etc. were closed. 

We began in the area called Belem.  We went to the Monastery of St. Jerome, King Manuel’s giant 16th century, white limestone church and monastery with remarkable cloisters, one holding Vasco da Gama’s tomb.  Our guide dropped us off, but was not aware we could not tour it because it was a holiday.  However, we were able to walk into the back area as there was a mass being celebrated.  It was actually special seeing it this way, with the smell of incense everywhere.  The front of this building is extremely ornate.

We then walked through gardens to see the Monument to the Discoveries.  It looks like a sail boat, but up close are the detailed statues of the explorers. 

 

Prince Henry the Navigator is at the prow along with Vasco da Gama and Magellan (holding a globe.)

We then walked back to the street to buy a special custard pastry this area is known for.  You can eat in or take out.  There were long lines for take out, so we went in and also had some pizza with the pastry.  It was very good.  The place is called Pasteis de Belem, and was established in 1837.  It is a very popular place with the locals as well as tourists!

Back in the van, we went not much further to see the Belem Tower, a UNESCO site. It looks like a small castle or chess piece.  The turret is the symbol of Portuguese national heritage.  On top of the structure, Our Lady of Safe Homecoming is a welcoming beacon for seafarers.  It was built as a fortress to defend the harbor of 15th and 16th century Lisbon. Because it was a holiday (and Monday), we couldn’t climb up to the top for a view of the river. 

We walked on a little further and saw the Maritime Museum with soldiers in front (closed, of course!)  There was an interesting water park area near it. 

We drove quickly past the Estrela Church, whose stone dome is one of Lisbon’s best known landmarks.  Queen Maria I built it in the late 18th century in fulfillment of a promise to God for giving her a son.

We all decided we wanted to see the “fairytale” town of Sintra, about 20 miles northwest of Lisbon.  It is one of Portugal’s oldest villages.  It is known for its 14th century National Palace (once the royal family’s summer residence) and Pena Palace. 

The National Palace has two tall black towers that are rather unique in their appearance.  They are not particularly attractive, but are a landmark all the same.  It is right in the town itself.

In contrast is the beautiful Pena Palace – which was worth the whole trip.  It truly is magical, including the drive through the forest to get there.  Once there, you can walk or take little green bus to the palace itself.  We opted for the bus because we were short on time.  We wish we had come hours earlier. 

Many poets, including Lord Byron in his famous Childe Harold, have described the beauty of Sintra and its mountain range. And this palace sits on the peaks of this mountain.  It was originally the site of a monastery in the 16th century.  It wasn’t until 1838 that Fernando II decided to first rebuild the monastery, and then changed his mind and decided to build a romantic castle-like palace.

Through the main gate you cross over what was a wooden draw bridge.  It leads to the spiral tunnel to get to the rest of the castle.  On either side of the gateway are two watch towers. 

Once inside, there are terraces, arches, beautiful tile work adorning the walls, a clock tower, and multi colored buildings which are all part of the palace.  The views from the walls are spectacular.   We didn’t have time, but you could walk all along the outer walls of the palace.  We went to the residence part of the palace, but were not allowed to take pictures inside.  The rooms were elaborately decorated with ornate furniture and art work.  And each ceiling was different in the different rooms.  They had a chapel that was beautiful as well, with an ornate alter piece.  There is no way to describe how beautiful this whole place is – so I bought a book with some pictures, but even that doesn’t do it justice.

You really need a day to spend at the palace  - and to be able to walk through the beautiful park and gardens.  They are as amazing as the palace itself.  You need a map to find your way through the park it is so large.  We all agreed that Sintra and the palace were the highlight of the day – and we all want to return to spend much more time here. 

We went back to the little town of Sintra to walk around and have a snack before heading back to Lisbon.  It was starting to get dark by now.  By the time we returned to Lisbon, it was dark, so we were only able to see the rest of the city by night.  While it was very picturesque, I would like to return to see it during the day. 

We drove down Liberty Avenue which is the largest in Lisbon.  It used to be a walled street, only used by the aristocracy.  It was built that way after the earthquake.  It was 100 years later before the city took down the walls and named it “Liberty” since it was now open to everyone. 

We drove through parts of most of the major areas in Lisbon – the Alfama (where the Fado music is prevalent), the Baixa area (the old business and shopping district) where the Black Horse Square (Commerce Square) borders one side and the Rossio Square on the other end, across from the train station.  This area is the heart of Lisbon.  Our final stop was at a lookout point where we were able to see so much of the city with all its lights.  We also saw on the top of a hill the Castle of Sao Jorge.  I’d like to come back and see all of this again, and take a tour of that castle.

As we were getting ready to get back on the ship, we asked where we could do our Internet.  Doug had carried around the laptop all day hoping to find a spot.  Right across from the ship’s dock was a train station, so we went and searched out an Internet spot.  After asking many cafe clerks, we finally found some official police who showed us where to try.  It was back in the original cafe where we had started our search.  They were very kind and waited to see if it worked.  When it didn’t, they told Doug to just walk with them to a spot.  I assumed he’d be back in just a few moments. 

Thirty minutes later, I was getting worried that he had been absconded by these men posing as police (it’s amazing the power of the imagination!) I gathered up Doug’s backpack and computer case, and started walking up and down the train platform in search of him.  I was nearly ready to try to find new police when I heard him call my name.  Needless to say, I fell into his arms, grateful and crying.  He had no idea why!  So, after some explanations, etc. we finally got the computer to work.  By this time, I could have cared less.  But since the next day was a day at sea, I knew I needed to check and respond to e-mails.  SO, if you were one of the people who received one from me that evening, just know what it took that night to send you one!!  I can’t remember when I have felt so afraid and alone, and not sure what to do.